A single 30-day pedestrian-water hike on the Putorana Plateau 2016. Andrey Podkorytov

A single 30-day pedestrian-water hike on the Putorana Plateau 2016. Andrey Podkorytov.

Difficult walk (30 days, 580 km) from the eastern to the western part of the plateau, packrafts on the Putorana rivers and lakes in drought, old friends in the form of Putorana bighorn sheep, grayling without a fishing rod, cloudberry without restrictions and determining the lower limit of the daily layout experimentally.

 


The general idea of ​​the campaign
Trekking route, changes (Stone wears water)
Driving mode, weather, mileage, numbers
Layout and power mode
Friendship with the reserve
Safety, communications, orientation, pharmacy
Fight for weight, clothes

The general idea of ​​the campaign
 This was the third visit to the Putoran plateau. The first was held in the summer of 2013 with a group (013/). The second visit in 2015 was a single, then it turned out to be a nice walk for 22 days along the western part of the plateau with a successful photographing of the Putorana bighorn sheep.The central and eastern parts of the Putoran Plateau were called and beckoned, but the time resources, the specifics of the relief and the logistics of the possible options for casting suggested that the solution hardly lies in the area of ​​purely hiking routes. After the hike in 2015, I was inspired by the idea of ​​using a packraft on the Putoran plateau, so for 2016 a strong water route was planned on the pack with a visit to the southern part of the plateau and its most delicious places - the Big Kureisky waterfall, the arrows of the Yaktali and Dulismar rivers, Dupkun lake. In addition to testing the packrats in the Putorana open spaces, I wanted to take part in the work of the Putoransky reserve, see my old Red Book friends, make new ones (endemics of the Putoran plateau) and expand the geography of the reviewed and filmed part of the Putorana plateau (the photo survey took place). On the Putoran plateau, they already know me, in some places they remember and meet me quite well, but my plans were taken into accountnot at all (completely ignored), there was no water in the required rivers.

The upper reaches of the river Lower Hikikal. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.

View from Mount Kamen to the south. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Trekking route, changes (Stone wears water)
   In 2016, there was again a drought on the Putoran plateau. There are no standard droughts there, therefore, unlike the 2013 drought, boats went to Lake Lama. There are many oddities with water on the plateau. For example, the 64-meter waterfall in the headwaters of the Hikikal River (I passed through it in 2013, 2015 and 2016) was noticeably more affluent this time than in the past normal in 2015. I learned the detailed situation with water only upon arrival in Norilsk (everything changes very quickly, the flood was powerful, but the water quickly descended, it is impossible to predict such a setup in advance, everything looks after the fact). Before the day of departure, the helicopter was about half a day in the mode, roughly, but with the exact phrase “do not know where * the army should rush” - he feverishly looked at the map, consulted, found out the details of the new places and the possibility of their passage. As the southern part of the plateau fell off in the water, there was a temptation to see the distant Kamen mountain and the alluring Lake Ayan in the central part of the plateau. Since the site of work for the benefit of the Putoransky Nature Reserve lay in the eastern part of the plateau (abandoned by helicopter), and dropping into Norilsk was possible only from the western part, there was no other way than to lay a distinct route from east to west through the right places.The pre-planned abundance of the floating part on the route changed to an abundance of the walking part.

Map of the route with overnight stays.
   The map shows the route traveled, the overnight stay numbers correspond to the days of the route. Black marks the area covered as part of work in the interests of the reserve, blue shows areas of rafting on the packrafts, red shows walking areas. After the rafting along the Kutaramakan River, there were still ambitions to swim the lake of the same name and walk up to the Great Irkingsda Falls (I was there in 2015), but there was not enough time for this. On the next map, the route traveled is shown against the background of the Putorana Reserve. It turns out that the reserve is crossed by a route from east to west.

The map is a route against the background of the Putorana Reserve.
   In the presence of products for 30 days, it is difficult to pre-schedule the route by day, much is solved and adjusted along the way. The idea of ​​rafting along the Kutamamakan River was born already on the route, initially, after Lake Ayan, was wondering to go to Lake Dlinnoye and in the usual way through the headwaters of the Heusi River to go to the boat on Lake Lama. I also thought about r.Irkingdu. I was told via satellite phone that the Irkinda River is also not floatable. For packraft, perhaps, water would be enough.The risk was much higher - about 70 km in the steep deep canyon of Irkingda instead of 30 km across the wide valley of Kutaramakan. In addition, the complexity category of Irkingda itself is higher.

Pakraft on Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
   And yes, in the case of the Putoran Plateau, it is very correct when preparing for a hike to study materials on much more extensive areas than the intended route route. From the planned southern part of the plateau I didn’t get into the central part of Lake Ayan at all, but I prepared it along with many other places, so the necessary maps were loaded into the navigator, and in the printed and laminated form there were two kilometers of General Staff for the central part of the plateau. With him there were also descriptions of all the major rivers and all the available lanes to them for the entire plateau. It fired. Several pieces of excess weight made it possible to drive a finger along the map already on the route, regardless of changes in its original version.

Headwaters of the river Prelocha. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Driving mode, weather, mileage, numbers
   The completed mileage was 580 km, of which 95 km is the water part (rafting on a packraft).If only half of the radial exits (about 80 km) are counted (as is usual in sports tourism), the mileage will be 541 km. However, I am not sure that this is correct, because All the Radicals walked with a fairly decent total weight of a kilogram at 13-14, and not at all light. In addition, the rules of sports tourism consider single trips extremism, so that the need to strictly focus on them remains in question. In general, I think that mileage was 580 km.

Self portrait The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
   The weight of the backpack at the start was about 42 kg.Moved pretty fast. Sometimes records were set, and sometimes, as a result, I woke the alarm clock and found myself still lying, smeared and not at all vigorous at 11-12-13 o'clock in the afternoon.
   In some areas it was compressed by sleep for up to 4-5 hours, and in some cases up to 2-3. In an exceptional case, the dream had to be excluded.
   Took on the route3 player and a reserve of lithium batteries under it. Like, so it was not boring to go. However, there were so many thoughts and thoughts on the plateau that in all 30 days the player never got out and did not even think about it. And one more strange moment for this region - for 30 days of the route, I never put on a bed fly, even in the forest zone. Visiting the neighborhood is more important.

District of Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
   About records.A good mileage from overnight to overnight turned out to be between 10.3 m on the Amnundakta river and a cordon on Lake Ayan (between overnight nights 15 and 16 in the route map). I left the parking lot at the waterfall at about 13-00, dined (had dinner?) Around 20-00, went down to the lake Ayan (Kapchug Bay) at 03-30, at 05-50 I was at the cordon. For 17 hours I left behind about 38.5 km, of which about 6 km was covered in a pack along the Kapchug Bay of Lake Ayan. Played the desire to reach the cordon. In the area of ​​30 km per day was a couple of times. Well, quite an uneasy mileage from overnight to overnight turned out at the exit (between overnight stays 28 and 30 on the route map) - 55 km. Probably between record and feat it is closer to the feat described below.

Basalt columns separately. District of Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
The mileage per trip was distributed like this:
1 day: 3.3 km; 2 day: 17.5 km; 3 day: 25.6 km; 4 day: 17.7 km; 5 day: 21.5 km;
6 day :: 19.8 km; 7 day: 14.1 km; 8 day: 30.5 km; Day 9: 22.4 km; 10 day: 15.7 km;
Day 11: 22.4 km; 12th day: 22.1 km; Day 13: 19.9 km; Day 14: 14.7 km; 15 day: 12.4 km;
Day 16: 38.4 km; Day 17: 10.8 km; Day 18: 20.5 km; Day 19: 15.5 km; 20th day: 19.5 km;
21 day: 35.1 km; Day 22: 6.4 km; Day 23: 17.2 km; 24 day: 10.5 km; 25 day: 11.7 km;
Day 26: 9 km; 27 day: 18.4 km; 28 day: 29.8 km; 29-30 days (without overnight stay): 55.5 km;

View from Mount Kamen to the south. The central part of the plateau Putorana.July 2016.
   At times, with a late exit, it turned out that I went to an overnight stay without lunch. At the same time for dinner was a double portion, nice. If you went to the shooting before dinner, and came back late - went to bed without food, so as not to waste time. In the days of heavy long transitions at breakfast leaned on the willow-tea with the addition of super-herbs.
   Often cooked in a tent due to rain and / or wind. The well-known danger of poisoning due to incomplete combustion of gas when using the systemJetboilin the tent I did not threaten, because inner layer of lightweight tenthalf netted and, as a result, blown heavily. Cook well, but sleep badly in windy weather.
   In some places, I met the good old windbreak of the “Pogan” and “Trash with Two Asterisks” formats (see the classification from the 2015 campaign). Not good. Frankly speaking - bad. I remember the mouth of the river Moy-Ahin, described below.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall in the upper reaches of the Hikikal River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
   Usually on main sections after breakfast and before lunch there is a 4-5 walker with a duration of 45 minutes - 1 hour. After lunch, before dinner, the same or a little less, depending on plans and time.Lunch at 19 is normal. There were long trips for 1.5-2 hours.
   The first 1.5-2 weeks was quite hot, uncharacteristic dry weather associated with drought. Relax comes in the morning. At night you often and easily wake up, because sleep is chilly, but in the morning the body relaxes and already at 8-00 it is very difficult to get up. From time to time, at 5-7 I woke up with a cucumber and crawled out on business, seemed vigorous and slept to myself, while it was still cool. And in 10-11 I woke up already sleepy and broken because of the heat. The heat starts at 8 o'clock, so when late setting the camp, you always wake up broken, sweaty, broken and sluggish (it is hard to get up before the heat).
   In the last week (the end of July-beginning of August), the weather changed dramatically, it started to rain and it became cold (minus at night).

The river ёлelocha. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Layout and power mode
     In 2015, I walked around the plateau for 22 days with a daily layout of about 460 grams. There was a good margin of safety. In winter, in the ski route in the Northern Urals, I planned 400 grams for two weeks, in fact 12 days passed on approximately 350 grams. Reducing the layout is interesting in and of itself, but weight remains the main motivating factor.In 2016, due to the water part, about 4 kg (2.7 kg packraft with skirt, 1.1 kg oar, 0.2-0.3 kg per repair kit) were added to the equipment, and the planned maximum duration of 30 days made the route unrealistic at the last year’s layout of 460 grams (it turned out if 30 * 0.46 = 13.8 kg only for food, this is a gluttonous brute force). Initially laid the layout of 300 grams. But in Norilsk he changed his mind and expanded it to 320 grams at the expense of the nut mixture (add to cereals and muesli).

Upper reaches of the Hikikal River. The western part of the Putorana Plateau. Plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     Actually, the daily layout of 320 grams:
Breakfast
, 90 gr: 40 gr. muesli, 25 gr. cheese, 25 gr. sweet (bar of muesli / chocolate / kozinaki)
, 90 g: 50 g sausage, 40 g sweet (bar of muesli / kozinak) - 25 days out of 30
45 g oatmeal b / n “Clearly the sun”, 45 g kozinaki - 5 days out of 30
, 90/85 gr: 2 * 45 gr. oatmeal Clear sun - 20 days from 30
45 gr oatmeal b / n “Clearly sunshine”, sweet (kozinaki / muesli bar) - 10 days out of 30.
50 grams of garlic.
For every day: 25 grams of sugar and 5 grams of dried apricots in porridge.
I do not include the following in the calculated layout: salt 125 g, ascorbic with glucose 78 tablets, tea and super-herbs.
Tea and super-herbs: 130 bags of herbal tea (mint / 12 herbs / hibiscus with additives), 120 g Ivan-tea, 100 g dried sea buckthorn, 20 g thyme.
Salt was used only for fish for 3 days of rafting on Kutaramakan.Tea was used exclusively herbal for ideological reasons (black and green tea contains caffeine, which causes dehydration).

Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Tackles in the form of fishing line, hooks with flies, float, weights and two spinners were taken with them. Rod / spinning did not take in order to save weight. Within 30 days of the route there were three food aids, when for about 2-3 days I ate significantly more than my layout. The first is that after I finished working with the reserve, a helicopter transplanted to me, I gave my observations and collected samples of Putoransky ram's litter, and the other accountants left me with remnants of my products, including an impressive piece of smoked bacon. Thus, on July 13, 2016 (the 7th day of the hike) a historical exchange took place, excuse me, d ** for salo. Although the Red Book, but still ... You could try to stretch the finished products, but it seemed to me more convenient to eat them quickly and continue the route on your planned layout (otherwise it would have lost its meaning). The second help was waiting for me at the Kapchug cordon of Lake Ayan, where I spent three middles (16-18th days of the hike) and also had the opportunity to have more layouts(although the cordon is uninhabited, but something has come to me there, I will not write how many cans of condensed milk I have sentenced there). The third help was no longer a gift of fate, but was obtained by honest labor. It was a fish during the rafting along the Kutamakan River. For four days (days of march 21-25) I got 8 grayling out of the water, which significantly expanded my meager planned ration. About the amazing (at least for me) fishing the corresponding section was written.

Grayling. River Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Also at the end of the route in two or three places there were tangible berries - mainly blueberries + blueberries and a couple of places of cloudberries. This is a big cool - to get in the middle of the route an impressive addition of food to the tight layout. But forward for a few days to eat, unfortunately, is impossible. The next day, again, I want to eat with the same force. A temporary increase in the layout allows only slightly restoring strength and strengthening the remaining general body resource.

Self portrait Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     The layout of 320 grams - probably brute force. One or another layout manifests itself after 15-20 days of the route (as with a marathon - it starts after the 35th kilometer).Since berries and fish can never be counted on with confidence, in relation to myself I think that for a duration of 30 days it is reasonable to plan a layout of 350 ... 400 grams per day. It is desirable to reduce it in the first two weeks and increase to the end of the route. The figures cited are by no means a recommendation, they are just conclusions for myself from my own experience. At 350 ... 400 grams for 30 days there will still be a hard regime, for which you have to be ready both physically and morally. In this case, everything is individual, people are different, you need to carefully look after yourself and gradually go out on such food (if there is a need for it at all).

Self portrait 29th day hike. Waterfall in the upper reaches of the Hikikal River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     From the negative manifestations of the hard layout on the route I will highlight convulsions - the muscles of the thigh, lower leg, hands (according to the hands - mainly due to the long work of the paddle in cold water). Unpleasant Well, by the end of the hike everything is clear - a decrease in working capacity compared to the beginning of the route (especially in the morning it is hard to go at cruising speed, especially uphill), a deterioration in the ability to heat yourself (on cold days at the end I went under a backpack wearing the warmest set clothes, except thermal underwear) and the gradual emergence of a bad head.
     On the route, I kept well in the sense of not very much attention to the thoughts about edibles (although, all the same, they were). It is foolish to go on the Putorana plateau and dream about food. It is foolish if only because the feeling of hunger on the route is temporary. No one ever remembers the feeling of fullness, because this is the norm. Being full is normal. It is strange to dream about the norm. It is necessary to dream about the future nishtyak route or those that cover the route failed.
     It's like that. But try to convince yourself of this in the fourth week of the trip ...

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Friendship with the reserve
     I have been friends with the Directorate of the Putorana Reserve for quite a while, therefore, in the framework of the hiking and water trek planned for 2016, it was supposed to combine business with pleasure and take part in the Putorana snow ram survey in addition to its route. My requests for a solo route were heard and the Directorate of the Reserve proposed the ideal option for me: I had a single passage of the left bank of the Dolocha River from its headwater to the middle course, coordinating and communicating with three groups of other surveyors,permanently based on the right bank of the river. I was the fourth, mobile group, between the groups there was a radio communication in the morning and in the evening. Groups from the right bank made radial rounds and observed telescopes on the southern bank with southern exposure, observing the appearance of rams. If the slopes of the river valley were viewed both by me and groups from the other bank, then the slopes of the left tributaries were entirely on me, they were not visible from the opposite bank. The part of the route passed for the benefit of the reserve is shown in black on the map above.

Ayakli river. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Canine. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     It takes about 2 hours by helicopter from Norilsk to the upper river Delocha. It is possible to get to the Dilochek river without a helicopter, but it will not be possible to go back within a reasonable time. Therefore, participation in monitoring and accounting for the endemics of the Putoran Plateau with helicopter transfer was most welcome.

Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Safety, communications, orientation, pharmacy
     The scheme used was already worked out in several single campaigns.Svyaznoy on the mainland, dedicated to the details of the route and having all the necessary contacts, registration of the route with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, insurance for the time of the route, satellite phone (Iridium) and satellite tracker3, allowing the connected in real time to track the location of the tracker on an interactive map on the Internet. The contact with the liaison was via SMS from satellite phone to e-mail every 2-3 days, the liaison also kept contact with the Ministry of Emergency Situations via e-mail every 3 days. Orientation - paper maps of the General Staff, main and spare small liquid compasses, satellite navigatorGarminGPSmapdownloaded raster maps of the General Staff on the whole plateau Putorana, descriptions of the terrain.According to the bears - friendship, whistle, hunter signal, false line, gas (in that order).
       After the January exercises in the Northern Urals, he took a closer look at the first-aid kit. Pharmacy pulled on 450 gr, the composition is as follows:
elastic bandage 2m
sterile bandages (5, 10 cm)
roll and bactericidal plaster
latex gloves
albucid (eyes)
bum (marker)
levomekol (antibiotic ointment)
sumamed (broad-spectrum antibiotic)
hydroponite (hydrogen peroxide, antiseptic)
citramon (pain reliever)
loperamide (antidiarrheal)
maxigan (pain reliever)
paracetamol (antipyretic, analgesic)
tavegil (allergy)
long-acting vasoconstrictor drops
individual cooling package
       When preparing the first-aid kit, there was a feeling that all real painkillers, however, were sold strictly by prescription or not sold at all. At the first aid courses completed last year, they voiced a similar thesis and one more that the country has a fixed monopoly on the provision of medical care. Ordinary people (not doctors) are not allowed there, even rescuers are deprived of this right (only first aid rescuers out of emergency mode, but its edge is blurred with medical help, so it happens that rescuers don't risk interfering at all). There is almost nothing in the free market that can be really useful for serious injuries, since these are, as a rule, semi-narcotic drugs, which are, perhaps, part of a military first-aid kit. The practice of getting cunning drugs by some kind of well-known methods is not known.

Snowmobile The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Fight for weight, clothes
     One of the main ways to save weight was the modest layout described above. In addition, a number of additional activities were undertaken:
Lightweight tentHubbaIt was taken without a cover (large and for the arcs of the frame) and pegs, which saved about 200 grams.
A lightweight hermetic bag was used for 120 liters weighing 250 grams produced by the Free Wind company (clothTaffeta210 D 5000PU Ripstop
Semi-open slates were used as floating shoes.from EVA foam with a pair weight of 167 * 2 = 334gr. Boots are also lightweight EVA foam.
Instead of the usual multitoolGanzostandard weight (weight 290 grams without bits, 365 grams with all bits) a multitool was usedLeathermanSkeletoolweighing 145 grams.
Instead of a multi-fuel / standard gas burner, a fuel system was used.Jetboil(345 g)
Instead of alkaline AA and AAA batteries, lithium batteries were used (AA lithium weight 16 g instead of 24 g AA alkaline, lithium AAA weight 8 g instead of 12 g AAA alkaline).
For cooking on a fire in the forest zone, a titanium pot with a volume of 0.8 l and a weight of 130 grams was taken.
A light pad with a thickness of 3 mm and a weight of 165 grams was used.
Took a folding sawFiskarsweighing 250 grams.
Well, and other simple restrictions on junk, including a set of clothes.
     Clothing set: hatSatilaKennet, cap with bandana, thermal underwearSatilatop and bottom socksSatilakinetic thin 2 pairs andSatilatrekking 2 pairs, shortsSalomon, pants from light thinlight windbreakerQuechualayershelltop ofAlpinewindbreaker membrane, down vest from, fleece gloves, thin, neoprene socks 3 mm.
     Footwear: shale and boots from foam, trekking bootsMammutTrail
     Any tricks of lightness for me is not an end in itself, but a means to make a real long route with the possibility of high-quality photography. The weight of gadgets associated with photography was approximately the same as in 2015 - about 8 kg, a new panoramic device was added, the programmable remote control was reduced.

Top of the mountain Kamen. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
The end of the first part.

 


Reviews on new equipment
Thread route: river. Diloche - river Kotuy - oz.Harpicha
Thread route: Lake Harpici - v.1678m - in. Stone - 102 m on the river Amnundakta - lake Ayan

Reviews on new equipment

Lake Small Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Pacft Tit
     We used a single package, the Titmouse produced by Krasnoyarsk craftsman Sergey Karzhaev in the configuration that became standard by spring 2016: reinforced bottom + skirt. The weight of the whole set was about 4 kg (2.7 kg packraft with a skirt, 1.1 kg paddle, 0.2-0.3 kg per repair kit). The paddle was collapsible into 4 partsPackliteAdvancedElements(230 cm, real weight about 1.1 kg), aluminum pipe (on the manufacturer’s website and onAmazonan undervalued weight of 900 grams was indicated, after the purchase I shamed the manufacturer with a letter, corrected the weight, sent a small hermetic bag as compensation). He was holding a carbon oar weighing about 900 grams - he was afraid to go with him, it was too flimsy. It is terrible to me with this, even it is impossible to step on it.
     Due to the lack of a keel, high seating, low weight and considerable width, there are questions about the speed of a packer on calm water compared to kayaks and kayaks. During the training rafting on the Gus river during the May holidays, I noticeably lagged behind the laden Ilmen type kayaks, in which they rowed very relaxedly.
     When using packrata in open water, there is also a problem - it is very bad to go upwind, it’s also bad to go to open water (that is, it is almost always bad on lakes like Ayana, where calmness is rarely). For example, it is very unwise to lay a passage on the pack of Lake Ayan from south to north, since the prevailing winds in this region usually blow from north to south. For calm water without wind speed is 4-5 km / h.

Kutamamakan River.The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     There are questions about the stability of the boat - the bottom is flat, a backpack at the top. A strong side wave is very annoying, dangerous. However, a very small draft is a pleasant consequence of the absence of the keel - with an even bottom (for example, sand) and the correct seat can swim at a water depth of literally 10-15 centimeters. In this case, the oar can not make a normal stroke, and the bottom still does not cling.
     Heard complaints to the server in terms of lack of space for a long alloy. If this is a long rafting - probably, yes, it’s too long to swim. But for water interspersions on foot, it is quite bearable. In addition, when making to order, you can ask to increase the size of the boat.

The river ёлelocha. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     The most critical moment in the case of a single packraft is the intersection of large lakes. A packraft is a one-balance thing, in the case of a hole in a river you can always almost immediately get out onto the shore, while moving along the lake along the shore too. But if you have to cross the lake, then there is nowhere to go, you have to take risks. The problem of water temperature is that it is approximately + 8C in large and deep lakes on the Putoran plateau.Therefore, in the event of an accident on the lake, even a kilometer from the shore, the chances of swimming in such water are quite small. But it cannot be said that they are not there - if you have a good hermetic bag in a backpack (inside or outside), the backpack will swim perfectly for an unlimited time. If you manage to straddle him in the water and do not lose the oar in case of an accident, then you will see quite real opportunities to set foot on the hard shore once more. It is advisable to rehearse, at least in my head.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     And, nevertheless, packraft is a breakthrough. The numerous complaints / questions mentioned above do not overlap my enthusiasm - packraft allows making amazing lines of routes, combining a serious walking part with water sections of the initial categories of complexity. There are vigorous men (and not only men) who make crazy water routes up to 1000 km long. They go on boats / kayaks noticeably heavier than packraft, with the result that their routes are always almost purely water. The walking part there is only at the level of short portages. But the weight of the packraft allows you to do serious walking routes and, if necessary, makes it possible to cross the lake or, if necessary, to go rafting in calm water.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     This year, another interesting pedestrian-water route with a good walking part was passed on the Putoran plateau, inflatable kayaks were used (spx? TravelID = a7752f11-f26f-4a8b-9a26-25480c91334d). Judging by the reviews, the maneuverability and stability of this thing is much higher than that of the packer, but the disadvantages are also obvious - this is achieved by increasing the weight. The link report provides a good overview of light boats.
BurnerJetboil
     BurnerJetboilproved to be very good. Without measure, self-confident sellers of the Sport Marathon dissuaded me from buying the easiest and simplest model(0.8l, weight 345gr). Say, the flame regulator knob is small, boiling water will spill, do not keep track of it, burn it, it is inconvenient and all that. They say take the modelFlash(1l, weight 400g), it has an elongated handle of the flame regulator. Tookand never regretted. If we talk about the mode of the campaign, in which grams are counted, then gently follow for 3-4 minutes over boiling water - this is definitely not a problem. Yes, in the 30 days of the trip, the water ran away from me and flooded the adjustment knob for three times, one of them, once or twice in a tent, slightly wetting the sleeping bag. Well, yes, I said a couple of strong words in space, but no more.The ability to shed hot is a normal price for minus 50 grams for 30 days.

Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Home test showed: gas consumption for boiling 0.8 liters of cold water about 7 grams (about 3 minutes). 7 grams, Karl! With three meals a day, 7 * 3 = 21 grams per day, then one 450 grams bottle is theoretically enough for 21 days, two for 42 days. For practice, it should be noted that the water in the mountains is slightly colder than cold tap water, and the air temperature is also significantly lower + wind loss. For 30 days I took 2 large 450-gram gas cylindersKovea. The first balloon was enough for 28 days. The gas still remained in it, just the remnants did not give a strong flame, which significantly increased the time of boiling water. I was in a hurry, so on the last two days I used a new balloon. Without haste, one tank would be enough for the entire route. In the forest zone, he tried to boil water at the stake, but at times he also cooked on a burner to save time in the forest. I think the conclusions about the wild efficiency of this fuel system are obvious. From complaints - an additional boiler is required for a fire in the forest zone (I had a titanium pot with a capacity of 0.8 liters and a weight of 120 grams).The burner protection for the burner still had to be portrayed as improvised means (the flame could blow out), the second motivating reason for this was additional insulation in order to save gas.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Light bag
     In 2015, I had to force the Kutaramakan Lake duct 200–300 m wide at the mouth of the Irkingda River (I didn’t actually have to, the reserve inspector transported by boat), for this purpose I used a 100-liter sandwich bag from a tesa weighing about 0.9 kg for a backpack. As part of the struggle for weight, this year a lightweight germica for 120 l from the manufacturer was used. Free Wind weighing 250 grams (clothTaffeta210 D 5000PU Ripstop). During the rafting on the Diloga river, the germik was inside the backpack (straightened, that is, it worked like a germica), as during the entire foot part, since the river was calm, in the Shiver брыз splashes practically did not fall on the backpack. During the first move through the water of Lake Ayan, it became clear that the backpack was very wet from the wave (things were safe, but it was a pity to wet the backpack itself, because it becomes heavy and then dries for a long time). For this reason, during the second course along Ayan lake (from cordon to Small Ayan lake) and during rafting along the Kutamakan river, the bag was put on the outside of the backpack.

Pakkraft Tit on Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Lithium batteries
     Infiltrate the use of lithium batteries. The main feature - the weight and time. Tracker3 completed the whole trip from one set (4 * AAA) in the mode of automatic sending of messages (it was always on while driving). The operating time of the kit in the navigator (2 * AA) was 4-5 days, for the trip it took 6 sets. Lithium is expensive, but very cool.
FiskarsXtract
     It has long been watched her for weight and compactness. Well, and for the fact thatFiskars. For a long time I was confused by the design of the retractable blade, resembling a footed stationery knife. However, everything turned out to be solid and reliable, there are no complaints. Saws worthy.
Sandalsfrom EVA
     Somehow correctly smart people call this foam, I do not remember. For size 43, the weight of the pair was 167 * 2 = 334 g. Behind these sandals are usually figovinka around the heel, she kept on a strong fuflyzhnyh plastic mounts, I was preparing to change or repair them on the first day of use. However, everything survived, there was no repair.

     I strongly object and indignant, when I see on the nature dishwashing or washing clothes with all sorts of nasty chemical means (Fairyand other stuff), as well as girls who wash their wild heads in streams with shampoos (better girls with messy hair than chemistry in mountain rivers, no?).At the same time, in a long hike, there is a tangible need to periodically stretch the first layer of clothing and socks. A simple rinse in cold water does not give the desired effect. On the route for this purpose took a piece of laundry soap (so grams 50-60). It helps a lot in washing and doesn’t harm the environment.
     The rest of the equipment used is described in the campaign in 2015, I do not repeat.

Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Thread route: river. Diloche - river Kotuy - oz.Harpicha

Valley r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Self portrait Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.   
    The rams also missed me, so I found the first one literally 20 minutes after disembarking from a helicopter. Even the backpack had not yet been put on, I decided to run a little up the side of the canyon. I was waiting for a horned female.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     With regard to the frequent monogamy of both males and females of precisely the Putorana subspecies of the bighorn sheep, there is still no clarity. Other subspecies of this does not occur, even the most understanding people of the reserve do not have a precise explanation.
     On the second day of the route along the edge of the Dyolochi canyon in the evening, at last I met an adult ram about 10 years old. As usual, he was in a state of evening slumber.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     From time to time itching, getting up to warm up, changing the place of the bed, stopping to chew on flowers and look at the valley of the Dedocha from the height of the cliff.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     In the middle reaches of the river Delochi also met sheep - several females. It is interesting to observe from above their ramified system of trodden paths.

Putorana bighorn sheep. r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Putorana bighorn sheep. r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Going out to the Dilochek River, he was very puzzled and stupid for a long time - the river flowed in the wrong direction.I was sober, full and everything, with a compass (two) and a navigator, but it still flowed upwards. In any case, he still started unleashing the packrafts, and after sailing somehow cleared up: the flow in this place was very weak and barely noticeable, but the wind was quite noticeable, therefore the waves from the wind created a highly plausible illusion of water moving in the opposite direction.

r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Just got into the boat on the river Dedochi, a wild thrill immediately washed over! Very unusual and very cool - nothing presses on your shoulders, hands waving freely (with an oar or a camera, or simply waving with delight), a light current slowly carries you along the route, you can take pictures, look around, look at the bottom through surprisingly clear water, stop in interesting places or just sit on your ass with your head up in the sky! On a river with a calm course, everything looks exactly like this.

Pakraft on the river. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     In the book of MVAfanasyev “Water Travels on the Putorana Plateau” are often mentioned traces of aboriginal stay. On the river Dolochi met the skeleton of an old trap for catching arctic fox - called the mouth.

Fall on the river Dyelochi.The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Traces of wolf are often found along rivers.

Traces of a wolf. Kotui River. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Traces of a wolf. Kotui River. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Lake Kharpicha crossed already at night, swam for a long time, froze, everything got numb, barely got out of the boat on the shore. Arranged a pleasant fire by a large stone.

Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     The shore is in boulders, and in the forest the climb begins abruptly, there is no place to put a tent. Perched on the slope. Not the most comfortable night, I had to wrap around a tree. Due to the late arrival and drying of things around the fire, he strayed to sleep around 04-30.

Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Whether the water near the shore is warm, or I suddenly became a very hot guy, but in the lake of Kharpich the next morning I didn’t just dip, but I swam quite calmly for a few minutes (I got up around 12-00). Later, with the lakes of Ayan, Kutaramakan and Lama, this trick did not work, there was traditionally cold water (swam, but less vigorously).

Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Harpica.The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Thread route: Lake Harpici - v.1678m - in. Stone - 102 m on the river Amnundakta - lake Ayan
     From Kharpich Lake to the highest point of the region (v.1678 m) there was a trunk section on the tops of the plateau, for which I allocated 4-5 days. The end of the route was still unclear then, so I wanted to spend minimal time on a simple section at the top. Walked quickly. These days were the hottest, so there wasn’t much beauty seen, there was practically no shooting. Only in the evenings there were sometimes pleasant views.

The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
On this site was a deer. Only local populations and renegades remain on the plateau in the summer, the bulk of the deer migrate in the summer much north of the plateau.

Reindeer. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
       There was also a vertical take-off of a tricky thing from the landfill somewhere north of the plateau, but this is obviously a secret topic, and it is impossible to describe it here with the image being laid out.
       With someone's easy web feed, there is confusion with the highest point of the Putorana plateau and with the height of Mount Kamen. I myself am in a review lecture about the western part of the Putoran plateau in the fall of 2015 at the Sports marathon site (text:, video:4Io) got excited and called the Stone the highest point of the plateau. There are stories about the fact that the height of the city of Kamen on the maps is understated. I declare responsibly that on the topographic maps of the General Staff (2 km, 5 km) everything is drawn approximately correctly (with a normal error of several meters). The highest point of the Putorana Plateau is the nameless peak (coordinates N69 ° 07'33.99 "E95 ° 18'42.34") with a height of 1678 m according to the map and 1690 m according to my navigator. About 10 km to the west of it, there is Mount Kamen (N69 ° 08'00.97 "E95 ° 04'44.74") with a height of 1592 m according to the map and the same 1592 m according to my navigator. Wikipedia about the city of Kamen, as the highest point of the Putorana Plateau, slightly moves. Picture of a nameless mountain with a height of 1678 m (the highest point of the Putorana Plateau):

The highest point of the Putorana Plateau is the nameless peak of 1678m. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

The area of ​​the highest point of the Putorana Plateau - the nameless summit is 1678m. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Photo from the top of the highest point of the Putoran Plateau (v.1678m):

The highest point of the Putorana Plateau is the nameless peak of 1678m. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
A snapshot of the mountain Stone:

Mountain Stone. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     From the town of Kameny, the peaks of Kholokit and Kotui are clearly visible.Since I went to the town of Kamen on the lake Ayan, it was impossible to pass by a waterfall 103 meters high in the upper reaches of the Amnundakta River. I took pictures there in the evening. Waterfall two-stage. The view would have been much more magnificent if not for the drought of this year.

Waterfall 103 m on the river Amnundakta. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall 103 m on the river Amnundakta. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall 103 m on the river Amnundakta. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall 103 m on the river Amnundakta. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall 103 m on the river Amnundakta. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     And the highest waterfall in Russia with a direct fall of water with a height of 106 m is located in the northeastern part of the Putoran Plateau on the Kanda River (a tributary of the Khibarba River), it was difficult to include it in the route. This waterfall is beautifully filmed by Sergei Gorshkov.
     After the waterfall on the river Amnundakta it was necessary to descend to the lake Ayan. From the parking at the waterfall came out quite late (13-00), dined around 20-00 at v.1312. At lunch, there was a telephone conversation and pleasant preliminary arrangements for a helicopter release with a passing flight from Lake Sobachye. I was greatly encouraged, and after dinner there was a long, quick 2.5-hour walk. When Ayan showed up, the vigor was still added.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana.July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     I went to Ayan at 3-30. Brewed gruel and tea. Inflated the boat, repacked things, took off.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Drizzling rain. Calm Ayan showed himself only once, and then not for long. Sailed to 4-55, took off. I just drove a couple of hundred meters from the shore in the Kapchug Bay and began to take pictures off the pack, it went rippling.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     And then the half-wind rose, and the gulf was slightly nervous (about 1 km in width), since There was a good back-side wave. Swam in the rain 1 hour 30 minutes about 6 km. At 05-50 was on the cordon. For the entire day from overnight to overnight, I made 38.5 km (32 on foot, 6 by water). Played the desire to reach the cordon. At the cordon he flooded the stove, was glad for the additional food. He fell asleep at 8-30 am, set the alarm clock at 11-00 (it was curious to examine the cordon).

District of Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     The staff of the Reserve's Directorate laugh lightly at the tourists, who are pinned to climb to the top and leave their simple note there. I also could not resist a couple of places.At the cordon of the reserve on Lake Ayan, in the visiting journal I read the records of the team of serious snowmobilers from Norilsk (Evlash E. and G., Molchanov M., Posokhin E., Mamaykin L.). I used to be a bit biased about snowmobiles, like, sitting on my ass, driving through the valleys ... But these turned out to be serious and very enthusiastic people. For a single trip they make a wild mileage under 1500 km along the Putoran plateau. Well, yes, condensed milk and cereals, most likely, they were the ones who brought it to the cordon, for which many thanks to them ...

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
The end of the second part.

 

 


Thread of the route: Lake Ayan - Lake Small Ayan - river Moy-Achin
Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin, rafting and fishing on the river Kutaramakan
Bad exit (Lake Kutamakan - Lake Lama)

Thread of the route: Lake Ayan - Lake Small Ayan - river Moy-Achin

Cordon of the Putorana Reserve on Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     The next day I looked around the base, stretched my things, remembered that such a heaviness in my stomach was so tiring in the city and so rare in a hike. In the evening I came out radially for the shooting, shot Ayan. Around Lake Ayan in the forest zone you can go and enjoy. Pleasant forest, without any debris and windbreaks. Explained by the height at which Ayan lies.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     After descending on the way back already in the forest zone I found out that a torch fell out of a short pocket (a false sweater). He was still very much needed, so it was impossible not to find him. Where exactly the torch fell in the last 4-5 hours was not clear. Began to return on the track, found in the kurum between the stones (just, he was very necessary). In the area of ​​02-03 returned to the cordon. The next day, also a midday night, washed in the lake. On the cordon and on the plateau above Ayan saw a hare. Fast.
     It is very unusual and pleasant in the middle of a hike to eat horns or rice. Ate not the last, the croup remained. He could not leave the food, he shared four lithium AAA batteries. On the second day, after lunch, there was also a radical with a rise on a plateau. He fought at 04-00. The next day, I got up at 11, fees, tidied up the hut, sailed.
     There were small waves on Ayane, he correctly decided to put the germ bag on the outside of the backpack.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Self portrait Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     According to Ayan, I had to swim to the lake Small Ayan, then to go along the tops of the plateau to the river Moya-Achin.Before leaving the gulf, the big Ayan walked about 1 h 20 min along the coast, a strong wave arose. On very big waves, the packraft unfolded with its nose, since the board is dangerous. Unfortunately, in the photo the size of the waves is not visible. When I went to the big Ayan to the south, it became more fun, because the wind was in the back, the speed increased and the big waves were not dangerous. On the shore of the Small Ayan dined, repacked.

Lake Small Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Lake Small Ayan looks like a small semi-forest lake, the impressions are completely different, not like from the main Ayan. The walking section from Maly Ajan to Moya-Achin River was also supposed to be a main road, 2 running days were allocated to it, I had to squeeze deeply after sleep (5 hours) and walk long hours vigorously. Overnight 19 won the title of the most comfortable and beautiful for the whole trip:

District of Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
It was the border of the forest, from where Ayan was still visible.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
       The tributaries of the Khukta River cut off, since the valleys are not deep, and there was little water in the rivers.
The descent along the Moi-Ahin tributary to the 9-meter waterfall on the Moi-Ahin river (the last waterfall before flowing into the Kutamakan river, 500 meters from the confluence) is very difficult in the sense of windbreak and discharges.The last 3-4 km of descent in front of the waterfall are very nasty and stressful - a dense shrub (alder?) Makes movement very difficult, there are some very steep faults, also overgrown with shrubs. In some places discharges can be passed through the stone channels, carefully insuring, in some places just a steep open and movable kurum. According to the classification proposed by me in the description of the campaign in 2015 (), according to the emotions of this area of ​​descent lies somewhere between the options “Trash” and “Trash with two asterisks”.
       Approximately 1.5 km from the waterfall, the relief becomes flat. From the pass I started descending at 17-30, and to flatten it was released only at 23..24. I saw cloudberries in the swamp - I threw off my backpack to restore the nerve cells, I ate the whole (there were not many). Next straight to the waterfall. Reindeer paths are periodically found, but passing deer often has to be changed, they don’t go directly to the waterfall. Before reaching the waterfall, I approached the edge of the canyon of the river Kutamamakan before the river Myu-Achin flows into it - a sad sight.

Kutamamakan River above the mouth of the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     This refers to the floatation potential of the Kutamakan section of the river above the confluence of the Moy-Hachn river. I took a waterfall. He fought at 05-00. Alarm clock at 9-30.The next morning I washed myself in the river, washed, had breakfast, went on reconnaissance in daylight.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin, rafting and fishing on the river Kutaramakan
     After the waterfall there is a beautiful river spill with steep walls and emerald clear water, through which a gap in the bottom is visible. From the walls of the canyon bowl, floating grayling can be seen slowly, and the plumb allows to pull the spoon on the fishing line into the water with just hands. It is difficult to come up with a better scenario for using gear without a fishing rod.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Bowl waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Grayling. Bowl waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     From the sheer walls of the canyon I tried fishing with a spoon. Not immediately, but the playing lure attracted grayling, from the second attack he hit the hook, after which he was carefully pulled up. I waited a long time for the second one, but I also pulled him out.

Grayling. Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     It was not clear how much fish I could cook at one time and how much I could eat. I took another shot, went back to the tent, cleaned it, cooked it. One grayling comes out just at the pot (0.8l), cooked 2 bowls in a row. Cooked for fidelity for 3 minutes, although the meat is cooked in boiling water in literally 1 minute. It is necessary to write something about the taste ... I will say this: there is nothing tastier and there can not be. I am very sorry that I did not catch the third grayling. The tent was about 15 minutes from the bowl, with the crossing of the river. In the evening before sailing I had to go on a shooting instead of re-fishing.
     In the evening before sailing, I still took a waterfall. Snapshot from the discharge point:

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     In this place, it was possible to spend a couple of days more fruitfully, but the time limit for hiking to Lake Sobachye or Lake Lama dictated certain restrictions, moreover, there was no clarity with the speed of rafting along the Kutamamakan River. He sailed at 02-25. At 04-05 I camped, swam only 3.5 km. Bonfire, dried. True, drying in the rain is not very productive.To continue fishing - it was not only my desire, I was frankly nudged to this. At the very first night on the bank of the river. Kutamamakan found a box of a novice fisherman with an excellent collection of slightly rusty hooks with flies and all kinds of locks. The find seemed to hint that there is nowhere to retreat, you need to consolidate your new status as a novice fisherman and expand your set of fishing priblud. He repulsed at 06-30, the alarm clock at 11.
     After the confluence with the Moy-Ahin river, at first glance, there was enough water in Kutaramakan to pack the pack. True, as on the Dilochek river, the first 7-8 kilometers were frequent rolling and shallow water sweeps that had to be passed by feet.

Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Packart Tit Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Further such sites were less, and full-flowing shiver - more and more. There were powerful real Shiver with a flow without any interfering stones. Ride in such Shiver like, entered the taste. Even short wiring with their legs ceased to strain. I walked less and less with small legs, more and more often it was enough to poke my ass right in the packraft to jump off the stone in the shiver and continue the rafting.I managed to penetrate, roll in the shiver like on a hill - quickly and gently (upstream in shallow shiver packs clung to the bottom of the stones, almost immediately above which was my ass, for the safety of both objects I was slightly worried).
     The next day I got up for dinner at 20-00, on the right on the hill there was a lot of firewood - I decided to make a big bonfire to warm up after several hours of rafting.

Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Sailed at 23-40. The rafting went well, less and less small rolls were needed where it was necessary to get out of the boat. On this day, during the rafting, the phrase Aldous Huxley from the novel “The Island” surfaced:“Here and now, guys. Here and now". These words became a significant refrain of the whole further route, they surprisingly approached completely different situations and always gave the right attitude.
     In 01-30 I began to freeze, in 1.5 hours I swam 5-6 km (and just 7.5 km before lunch, in 5 hours). The speed has greatly increased. Around 02-00 I saw a good reach and grayling floating in the pits, camped in front of the pier.

Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     Found a place where it is convenient to throw a fishing line with a spoon, just with your hands.I see grayling lures see, react, biting began. After the first grayling pulled ashore 2 or 3 fell through. When you are about to pull the grayling on the shore, and he breaks down and leaves, it is slightly annoying, to put it mildly. Eating, I want to win. In attempts to pull out the third grayling, he practiced until 07-00 in the morning. In vain. The rate determined by someone for that fishing in 2 tails remained unchanged. Then the fish ceased to be interested in the lure - it became lighter and she could see how I cast the lure, sailed from the shore due to sudden movements. Gutted fish and to save put in the grass. In the morning it began to rain. There was no dinner before the night fishing. At least in the morning it was still necessary to sleep, lay down at 9-20, the alarm clock at 11-00. After a short sleep, he washed the fish and again cooked 2 grayling cauldrons.

Grayling. Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     On the route there are moments that are remembered not just for a long time, but forever. You sit under a sluggish rain on the bank of the Kutamamakan River somewhere in the middle of the Putorana Plateau, in front of you there is a bonfire and a kettle with the most delicious fish soup in the world. The crackle of the fire, the clouds, the river is noisy, and you drive away the thought of the coming tents gathering wet,for the grayling in the cauldron will someday end. The mentioned refrain from the “Island” sounds sharply in my head, and you understand that this is for life. You can try to tell someone about it, but it will only be a measly outline. All artistic lyrics are ridiculous stubs compared with sensations there and then. They don’t talk about such things if they don’t want to be cunning, and it’s not a matter of the suspense of the language and not of eloquence. Much later, in the city, the surrounding people begin to share their impressions of the holiday, spent in some warm, cozy and interesting place (Barcelona, ​​Greece, Crimea, Sochi ...). We have to be silent. Because there is nothing to tell them about.
     (A familiar girl who walks alone in the forest, regarding the previous paragraph, said this: for those who do not walk alone, the paragraph will be past the cash register. I decided to leave.)

Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     After the fish could not refuse and yet forced myself to eat the morning layout. Nothing can be done, there is a regime mode ... I took off, sailed at 19-00. Then there was the rafting, as it should be - crawled for the postings with his feet already a few times. These stormy Shiver.With the approach to the lake the floods of the river began, blockages of fallen trees appeared. Apparently, the flood here is very hard.
     After 1 hour after the departure I saw a long reach, in which a grayling was noticed under the boat. I tried fishing with a spoon from a boat. Two grayling fell through. Several times the fish simply could not bite the hook and after unsuccessful attempts swam away. One is still pulled out. I waited for the second long and unsuccessfully, as a result I swam further at 22-30. While fishing from a boat - podzamёrz, all day it was raining with short breaks. At 23, I began to look for a parking place, but I was not comfortable, I camped only at 00-30. From the first place you liked sailed, because on the shore there were fresh traces of a young bear, he decided not to ask for a meeting. At the second good spot, I had already begun to unpack and again saw the tracks, this time from an adult bear. Simply, bears are everywhere on the river bank, so finding a convenient parking area without a trace of their stay can be problematic. This is normal, they live there. Stayed. He welded his grayling, with fins, because a thesis about a greater richness due to has come up in memory from somewhere. Hang up at 4-30. Alarm clock at 11-00.The next day it was necessary to swim to the lake. I got up later, night fishing was not in vain.

Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     When approaching the mouth of the Kutamarakan due to the loop of the river, debris may not be visible, it is necessary to go ashore and view. After one of these views, he walked around the water in the blockage and, in the place of a strong jet, hardly kept the boat (water began to flood over the side).
     Another good ridge (the eye began to isolate interesting places for fishing) - swam to look, saw grayling. I caught 2 fish on my spoon. Two more broke. The third caught on the lure found. Some rather large non-predatory fish swam up and tried the lure, but quickly lost interest. When I sailed downstream to 800 meters, I began to be greedy - I wanted to go back and go fishing in a rich swim (the three grayines lying in the boat didn’t seem to be enough for a happy life). But he did not dare rake 800 m against the stream.
     The last one in front of the lake Kutamamakan spilled the river, the lake became shallow, the banks became bare. Began to look for a place under the tent at 01-30. It had been raining for several hours. For three grayling we needed a decent supply of firewood, I had to look for sushin.
     And then it was like this: morning of the white night, the shore of Kutamamakan lake, a fire, light rain and three bowls of soup from grayling in a row. One after another. The first grayling ate at 5-30, finished the feast third around 07 am.

Grayling on the background of the lake Kutamamakan. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Grayling. Kutamamakan River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
     During the rafting down the Kutamamakan river, everything was not as mattress as on the Dolocha River. For this reason, the camera on the water was packed inside the backpack. It was the right decision, because several times there were situations in which it was easy to roll over; the small-water shiver abounded with stones, which were sometimes thrown at.
     Of the clever floatable garments, he only turned out to be clogged with neoprene 3 mm socks. Neoprene suits are too fat in terms of weight for walking, and I don’t see any particular need. Yes, after a few hours of rafting, it is cool and slightly wet, you have to warm up by working with an oar, and you want a fire on the beach. According to the clothes during the rafting - the only change after the walking part was the change of socks and shoes.
     Brief impressions of grayling. Grayling - fighter. Grayling - a man. He is very predatory rushing to the spoon. In addition, the grayling is very strong.When you pull him out of the water, he fights hard on the fishing line. When you hold it in your hand, you wonder at its strength. When fishing from the packraft, they had to press it with their feet to the bottom of the boat and swim to the shore to the nearest pebbles. Grayling is beautiful, its color in water can be different depending on the depth, light and environment. Yes, and behaves with dignity. If, after two or three attacks on a lure, he could not swallow it (he missed, not his day), he quickly swims back home, as if expressing this “it doesn’t hurt much”.

Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
       One of my blades went with grayling back into the river, because the knot was untied at the place where the fishing line was attached to the hook. The second lure went there because of the line breakage in the same place. The right fishermen before the trip showed me the right knot for the hook. On the route, this node was safely forgotten, so some worker-peasant combination of knots got tangled not without bulin, which caused the loss of both locks. Fortunately, the found box corrected the situation, the last 2 grayling out of 8 were pulled out onto the found lure.
     For the first time I felt the excitement, when after a long or not so much waiting and playing with a fishing line, a grayling suddenly appears with its huge fin and predatoryly rushes into an attack on the trolling.And yes, what could be more offensive - you have already pulled this handsome man out of the water, there is only one movement left to lower him into the boat, and he is beating furiously, breaking and going into the water from an arm's length. Not so easy. For all the time of the rafting, I somehow lost 10 pieces.
     Slightly changed the attitude to fishing. Previously, the same bad attitude to hunting and fishing. Now I understand and admit fishing for food. Still strongly opposed to trophy fishing (commercial rafting routes for trophy fishing, including on the Putoran plateau), when they are trying to catch more fish, not for food. Something tells me that it is not always the case that a trophy catch is released as required by the rules. How and with what reason can you catch a taimen weighing several tens of kilograms and a few decades old? Let yourself swim further.
     With boiled grayling on the Kutamakan river, he ate not only fish skin, but also the contents of his head. I begin to worry about the fact that the taste of the grayling gradually disappears from memory. I only remember that it is tastier than chum, sockeye, salmon and chinooks combined.

The upper reaches of the river Lower Hikikal. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
Bad exit (Lake Kutamakan - Lake Lama)
     Slightly summed up the preliminary agreement with the reserve - in the middle of the route there was information about the possibility of a drop by passing helicopter from Lake Sobachye. The rest of the route was planned day by day with the expectation of exactly this option. Laid 4 days to exit from the north-eastern part of the lake Kutamakan to Lake Sobache. The exit from Lake Kutamamakan to Lake Lama remained a safety but very stressful option. The remaining time was the cause of the tension: from a specified point to the base of Bunisiak on Lake Lama in 2015, I went for 6 days, taking pictures, but rather well straining. This year, only 4 days remained at this site, the mileage of the site is about 100 km. When it came to clarity with a helicopter (or rather, with its absence and the need for an independent walking exit to Lake Lam for 4 days), it came to be understood that the exit would be very difficult (days from the 27th to the 30th are the worst time to set records ). It was not good to be late to Lam lake. the boats go strictly on certain days, and with the boat there was a tie to the plane ticket. All nights after Kutamakana were 4-5 hours of sleep, in a hurry.The weather had turned bad by that time, it had been raining almost all days, with interruptions. At night there was already a minus, the water in the pot near the tent was frozen.

District r.Listvyanka. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     Cloudberry is accustomed to consider his favorite berry. Therefore, when, at the transition from the Kutamamakan lake to the Listvyanka river, I came across an abundance of cloudberry, the mood rose sharply. Stunned, threw off his backpack, began to eat with two hands. Defined the perimeter of the clearing to systematically eat the whole. 30 minutes went. Ate! I am ashamed to admit, capitulated. Did not cope. I had to leave a myriad of ripe yellow cloudberries. Already the next morning was a great pity.
     The boat departed on the morning of August 6th. The final throw started at 7-15 4.08 in the area of ​​the cliff, similar to a pagoda or spire (overnight 28 in the diagram, headwaters of the Nizhn.Hikikal river). Dinner was at night at 02-03 August 5 at the beginning of the descent along the tributary of the Heusi River. I decided not to sleep at night, because it takes a long time to set up and assemble the camp, there was no place to save power. Went to Hoici around 07-00 5.08. After a day of movement the head is bad. Along r.Hoysi here and there is a poorly visible path, but it is periodically lost. Around 11-12, in search of a path, he crossed the river in vain, found nothing, returned. I was upset, freaked out, threw off my backpack and finished eating the last 2 bars and a portion of sausage.There were only a few porridges, which did not want to cook and there was no time.
     The path was periodically lost, I had to go traverse along the slope to find it again. On the windbreak without a path - slowly. On the approaches to the base Bunisiak Oleg Kraszewski the path became more stable. Around 18-00, I went out on a patch, from which one could go straight to the base on the terraces without a path (3.5 km) or go along a path, but with a hook through the swamp.

Waterfall. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     I didn’t want to work at all, so Tatiana Krashevskaya called to get a few miles to the base by satellite phone to clarify how to go faster - by terraces or a path (in 2013 and 2015 I went to terraces). The connection was bad, I did not hear everything, but I went along the path.
     After 35 hours without sleep, my head feels very bad, sometimes it lost track, then found it again. I was annoyed how to lose the path where untrained people walk from the base. Long and hard walked to the shore of Lake Lam. Along the lake there was still 2.5 km, you can walk along the rocks of the shore, you can just above the path in the bush. He walked the path. About 500 meters before the base came out on the rocks of the shore - right there from the base an employee of the base swam up on the boat and said “Zalaziyte!”that I was met - because of a bad connection by satellite, I did not hear that you could immediately go ashore and would take me by boat to the base. Drove to the base, said hello to Oleg. I was going to spend the night in a tent, and on the boat in the morning (as in 2013 and 2015). Probably, by the evening of the 30th day of the route, after a sleepless night, I looked completely unimportant, because the owner of the base, Oleg Krashevsky, said that he would not take the money, feed and give him something to drink, and settled into a house in the Economy-format base.
     The base was in the evening around 19-20 of the 5th of August. For two days and one night the mileage was 55.5 km. Since there was no overnight stay, the extreme 30th is already shown on the route map after overnight 28, already on Lake Lama.

Lake Long. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     In Norilsk, met a group of one of the commercial tourist clubs. Chatted. He asked how it was going along the river Hoixi, they say - yes it was normal. I was surprised - I was dying there, the path was constantly lost, and in general in some places he still fell down. Then it cleared up - they laid 2 days on the Hoixi River and walked slowly. Because of the rush, it took me about 12 hours, in a hurry, so the impressions are completely different.
The end of the third part.

 

 


Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama
Remarks for violent
Othodnyak
in total

A few more (many) pictures from the route
Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama
He left the route on the plateau through the base of Oleg Krashevsky for the third time.

Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     During the last week of the route I had a modest, but my dream - condensed milk with bread. Oleg laughed, after a hearty dinner (ear + venison) gave both condensed milk and bread. Said to come to the second dinner after the bath. Came the second time, again venison. The cook was cooking at the base, who at one time fed the film crew of the Territory film during filming on the Putoran plateau. I cooked very well (although, even if it were bad, I would not have noticed it at the exit from the route).
     He spent the night in a house of format Econom - a common veranda with a table under the roof for two rooms, in each of the rooms there is a stove and three bunk beds. In general, in the format of a tour to the base, this is the type of Spartan conditions, but after 30 nights in a tent on a plateau it was a suite.

Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
     On the basis of a stunned bath, I noticed it back in 2013. Unfortunately, in 2015 I did not manage to go to the super-bath. Residents of the base belong to the bath quite smoothly, becausecan use it every day and just wash. In 2016, I still broke through the steam, slightly ugly wedged out of turn in the men's time, painted for living on the base. When, after a steam room with oak brooms, I dived into the cold water of Lake Lama, and then went ashore, I was noticeably swaying. Partly - for obvious and natural reasons, partly - because it was very cool, and the relaxation was felt especially acutely, because not even three hours passed since the end of the 30-day hauling of a heavy backpack on a plateau. The body floated, 30-day collection spread.
     On the base there is an ethnographic museum on the Nganasan culture (Nganasans - one of the smallest indigenous peoples of the Taimyr Peninsula). For residents of the base in the evenings in the museum lectures are held.

Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama. Ethnographic Museum. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2013.

Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama. Ethnographic Museum. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2013.
     There are several options for living conditions, many houses on the base, 2-5-bed rooms. For those who are accustomed to hotels, the conditions described above Economy can seem inconvenient.I did not see the remaining options, but there is definitely something more comfortable in the large three-story guest house. In general, they are not going to the Putoran plateau for amenities.
     I can not help but notice that when you stay at the base, only the nearby environs of the eastern part of Lake Lama can be seen. Even very vigorous without spending the night away will go far. But, firstly, for many, and this will be behind the eyes and behind the ears, and, secondly, in the absence of sports experience, the first acquaintance with the Putoran plateau can only be in such a light variant. The price tag for 10-day tours to the base, in my opinion, is a little expensive, but the plateau impressions will most likely pay off.

Base Bunisyak on Lake Lama. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
Remarks for violent
       The passed downless descent from the plateau to the Dilochi River was previously viewed on satellite images through-planet and dots in the navigator. Finding it in a row is problematic. This non-verbal descent site cannot be determined by the relief of the two-kilometer raster map of the General Staff (it seems to be no more detailed scale for this area), and it is difficult to descend directly next to this place (at least from the western side).
       In the place of the confluence of the Dilochek and the Kotui rivers, even in low water there was an unpleasant place for a packer (burun?), Where it could drag out if not to take any right actions. I had to take.
       The ascent to the plateau to the north of Lake Kharpich is very simple, but directly a step with a snowfield before entering the plateau is problematic, it's cool there. Not that it was a straight climb, but I had to take off my backpack and transfer it to a little snotty oneself in one place. Probably exploration along the edge of the plateau could have been a simpler option.
       A few hundred meters west of the Triangular of the Top of Kamen, there is a comfortable large and flat platform with small pebbles. Approximately one million tents will fit in, a helicopter will quietly land, there is water (streams from the site in a southerly direction).
       The descent from the plateau to the Kapchug Bay of Lake Ayan from the north along the traversed track is simple everywhere except for the lowest part - there are two very steep walls of discharges of 100 meters each, which can be dangerous to pass without a trace. On the wall it is necessary to look for places a little longer and with the presence of trees. With the right approach, everything goes through with a heavy backpack.
       The ascent to the plateau from the lake Small Niyan at the very end is steep, slightly to the north it will be clearly put, was too lazy to bypass.
       The descent along the Moi-Ahin tributary to the 9-meter waterfall on the Moi-Ahin river (the last waterfall before flowing into the Kutamakan river) is quite filthy, described in more detail above.
       It is useful to read when planning something water on the Putorana Plateau: MVAfanasyev “Water Travels on the Putorana Plateau”.
     Pondering the sharp points of the route. On the main sections along the tops of the plateau, it would be extremely unpleasant to remain without a satellite navigator (in the report on the 2015 campaign, I already wrote about the difficulties of orientation to the plateau). In other places it is difficult to get lost, but on the upper monotonous part of the plateau - easily. Staying there without a navigator is already pretty dumb, not to mention bad weather (i.e., lack of visibility). In a solo, take a second raw device (such asGarminGPSmap) - a clear search by weight (260 g), but something small likeGarmineTrex20/30 (140 gr) - I would have thought. In a group trip, by definition, there must be more than one navigator with the correct map loaded.
       In my navigator on a standard vector map fromGarminThe names of the rivers ёлelocha and Kotui are confused. The correct version is shown on a raster topographic map of the General Staff (of any scale), in fact, the Kotui River lies to the north of the Dilochka River, and not vice versa.
       With water for the entire route there were difficulties in just a couple of places.On the rocky massif to the north of Lake Kharpich and in some places in the area of ​​the Dolocha River. The difficulties are solved, just in a drought you should always lay 30-40 minutes on the possible need to go somewhere to the open water (meaning any release of water to the surface).
       In the low tide of 2016 on the Kutamamakan River there were Shivers, in which there is a tangible risk to roll over on the packraft. On the last few kilometers of the river before flowing into the lake of the same name, the main danger is a block of trees. Kutamamakan there is already very full-flowing (collected many tributaries), the flow is very fast, with strongly winding meanders, the debris from the trees is not visible in advance, at a speed it can be pulled under a tree hanging halfway in the water with all its consequences. Review required. According to the descriptions, the section of the Kutamakan river from the mouth of the Moya-Achin river to the confluence of the Kutamamakan lake for catamarans is semi-mattress (category 2), but for some places there might be questions for the packer.

Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Mountain Stone. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
Othodnyak
       For 30 days of a campaign I lost 10 kg in weight.In Norilsk, the day before the plane kept, culturally went to the steakhouse, bought food without fanaticism. Upon arrival to the mainland - it raced ... 2 weeks after leaving the route, the weight was +5 kg to normal (quickly got 15 kg), after 3 weeks - plus 6 kg to normal, but active zhor did not stop. The body was torn by a tower from the “Leningrad syndrome”. Regardless, everything that was eaten immediately went to the reserve for famous places. Something happened with the metabolism, the kidneys and the liver could not cope with the flow of various kinds of food, manifested in the swelling of the lower extremities. Slept with a stand under his feet.
       Dipping in condensed milk baklava, chak-chak and churchkhela - this is probably too much. The apotheosis was experiments on dipping into condensed milk of small tasty tubes filled with condensed milk. More delicious! As soon as he tried to hint about busting himself, the body immediately remembered about 37 hours and 55 km, to which I had nothing to say. I went on about, because there was an overstrain. Run off and jump the extra few pounds upon reaching the normal form then you can easily.
     After a week and a half after leaving the route, it was necessary to start moving.There was no talk of running, I started a long walk. From half an hour to an hour and a half in quick steps. Strength training is not. During the long walk, the edema of the legs decreased markedly. In addition to sweets like fish - caviar and salmon filet cold / to. For August and September, I ate a kilo of 2.5 red caviar.
       On the 31st of August (the 26th day after the hike), under the slogan “Battle for the Girobas!”, Began the morning jogging. Not so easy.
 At the end of September and beginning of October, the struggle with the state of the infirm girobas successfully continues (the girobas reluctantly, but surrenders), the forces are restored, the hair falls into place. The restructuring is slow.It is difficult to reverse the installation “to store”, inertia is manifested.If you do not move for a few days and do not restrain yourself in food, everything goes back to the supply, though not as actively as at the end of August. I work.

The upper reaches of the river Lower Hikikal. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.
in total
       The text of this report is rather dry and technical. I consciously almost do not write monograms about the feelings and impressions of a solitary stay on the Putoran Plateau for 30 days. It is very personal, and so do not share. Perhaps something crawls through the photos, but it is not visible to everyone.
       If in 2015 it was not easy, in 2016 it was very difficult. I try to write with jokes, but this is all now, sitting on a soft chair in the warmth and having a good lunch twice. On the plateau at the end of the campaign, jokes popped up not as vigorously as they are now.
       Pakraft - a breakthrough in pedestrian-water tourism. It allows you to map amazing lines of routes, while ordinary pedestrians sadly bypass lakes along the shore and try to cross large rivers.
       I wildly like this estimate: in 2016, on average, every 12th day of the year was spent by me on the Putorana Plateau. This idea is very warm and happy.

Valley r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
A few more (many) pictures from the route:

Valley r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Valley r.Delochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Canyon in the upper reaches of the Hikikal River. The western part of the plateau Putorana. August 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

The area of ​​the mountain Stone. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Putorana bighorn sheep. Headwaters of the Dyelochi. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Self portrait Lake Harpica. The eastern part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Waterfall on the river Moya-Achin. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.

Lake Ayan. The central part of the plateau Putorana. July 2016.
The end of the fourth part.


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